When I saw the brand new Brass, I couldn’t help but smile. Despite a major design overhaul, the charming bright banana yellow exterior of former Yellow Bistro and Food Store remained. In an otherwise grey and white suburb, Brass, like Yellow before it, adds a touch of eccentric thrill.
Inside, however, the colour seems to stop. The theme is clean and bold with polished wooden floorboards, black bar stools and tables, and waxy beige walls. Lashings of reflective gold panels create atmosphere in the otherwise simple design. These glamorous panels also line an impressive bar set up – which dominates the restaurant space. The bar’s shelves are lined with bottles of wine while the counter boasts a range of house-made sweet goods including macaroons and pastry.
Seating is divided with the option to sit outside at a cute little porch on Maclay Street or inside, surrounded by huge rectangular angled mirrors. The mirrors are a great addition, creating an illusion of space in what would otherwise be a very close and intimate seating and table arrangement.
The hero at Brass is the food, and namely, executive Chef, Darren Taylor. After training at Troisgros – a 3 Michelin star restaurant in France, he then worked as Executive Chef at Kinselas, Bilson’s, Fine Bouche and Buon Riccordo. The menu is a mix of French and Italian delights – including roasted Thirlemere spitchcock, ocean trout croquettes, charcuterie and minute steak bordelaise. Each dish is simply presented, the salad of poached Atlantic salmon sits plumped on a well-dressed bed of spinach, rocket and plump cherry tomatoes. A smooth pesto adds a splash of colour to the dish and combines the simple flavours.
Gnocci is certainly not the most visually impressive dish however Darren’s tomato, buffalo mozzarella and parmesan version is appealing. The gnocci is moist and light but the buffalo mozzarella, – now that is the ingredient that speaks for the dish.
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The Brass dining room is ideal for an intimate and sophisticated dinner however, the restaurant is also great as a takeaway cafe with a selection of sambos, salads and sweet treats. The choices change daily, according to the chalkboard next to the bar. The coffee is Single Origin and the pastries are all made in house.