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I didn’t exactly book into with sustainability in mind – nor do I ever even think twice about ethical issues when ordering a piece of fish. I’m not proud of this, but, I am also very forthcoming to being educated (especially anything to do with food). So it was with an open mind that I headed over the Anzac Bridge to

Located just off Victoria Road, at the Rozelle end of Darling Street, is this gorgeous little restaurant. The fit out is clean and modern however lime “green” tinges add a freshness to the otherwise black-and-white theme of the restaurant. A huge mirror runs along one side of the restaurant giving the long, narrow interior a more spacious impression and allows any guests who are not facing the open kitchen a glimpse of the chefs at play.

On a Thursday night, this neighbourhood eatery is absolutely chockers. Owner Michelle and Michael Grand-Milkovic opened with a simple philosophy in mind: to deliver beautiful seafood in the most sustainable way possible. While the restaurant staff don’t seem to preach to their customers about ethical or sustainable eating, the food speaks for the philosophy instead. Each dish- from the Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio to the King George whiting fillets – was refreshingly uncomplicated. The carpaccio wasn’t laden with “extras”, only a simple splash of shellfish oil accentuated the sweetness of the kingfish while a couple of wedges of pink grapefruit added a tart contrast. A sprinkling of macro herbs on top and the dish was picture perfect.

Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio, shellfish oil and pink grapefruit

Each of the main dishes at are served very simply – no fanciness – just the piece of fish (grilled or beer battered), served with a wedge of lemon. However, with over ten side dishes and house-made sauces, this is where the excitement lies. Unable to choose between the butternut pumpkin, black lentil and mint pesto or the cauliflower mash, green beans and romesco, we go for both.  Add a crisp glass of sauvignon blanc and we are in seafood-heaven.

The tagline for this restaurant is “the fish bar with a green heart” and as I scrape the plate of the last ounce of romesco sauce, I can’t think of another sentence that could describe it better. I just wish I lived down the road because, with a philosophy like theirs, I could happily justify eating at a couple of times a week.

Anna Lisle

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